Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) - is a large pre-Colombian city in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta that was built between the 11th and 14th centuries by the Tayrona Indians. The only way to get there is by foot. It took five days to hike there and back.
After talking to a few travel agencies that offered the hike, we booked the tour with Expotur that offered the tour with an English translator.
On the day we started we were picked up in the morning by an old jeep to get to the start of the trail. We were 13 people in the jeep and it was very, very cozy. After an hour driving on the road we had to drive for about another hour up to the mountain village were we would start the hike. The way up there can not really be described as a road. It was more a wide trail with a lot of deep holes and some very steep parts. The jeep had to work very hard to get there. But of course we made it. Our group consisted of 10 people (6 from Canada, 2 from Ireland and us) and our great guide Antonio and awesome translator Carlos.
After we had lunch in the little village Machete we started the hike. At the beginning the trail was quite steep and exhausting. Luckily we stopped at a nice little spot at the river were we could jump in and swim for a while before continuing the hike. The view over the mountains surrounding us was amazing - green everywhere. When we got to the camp we were the only group there and it was nice and quiet. We relaxed at the camp while Antonio and Carlos prepared the dinner. The food on the trail was always surprisingly good.
Mmmmm. The guides even carried eggs up the hills so that we could have eggs for breakfast. We also had a lot of delicious fruits during the hike and chocolate bars.
The area where we were hiking used to have a lot of farms growing coca plants and producing cocaine paste. In recent years people from that region were encouraged and financially supported by the government to grow other crops or work in the tourism industry. We visited a small little shack where a young guy explained the process of producing cocaine paste. Out of 12 kg coca leaves they get 20 g of cocaine paste. There are a lot of different chemicals (salt, gasoline, potassium, lime, ...) involved and through quite a number of processes they get the paste. This paste is than sold and will be made to the powder and send abroad. Of course we couldn't take this little tour officially but apparently the military doesn't care too much about these tours. It was interesting to see how complicated it is to produce cocaine. I also tried the paste but it doesn't have an effect except numbing your mouth.
The hiking on the second day was fairly easy over nice rolling hills. Again we stopped at a river were we jumped of the rocks into the water. After hiking in the heat that was great and very refreshing.
After a few hours hiking we got to the camp around 2 in the afternoon. We were not sitting there too long until we noticed that there were tons of little flies biting everyone in the legs. Of course I got so many bits that it was impossible to count them. We all changed into long pants and were wearing our flip flops with socks. Only covering up helped against the bugs. Luckily at night we had mosquito nets over our beds or hammocks.
The trail on the third day was very beautiful with trails through thick amazingly green forest and a few river crossings. We also passed a few little Indian Villages where Kogi Indians live.
In the afternoon we hang out at camp and watched the rain. It was pouring very hard for an hour or so and we could definitely see the water rise in the rivers.
On day 4 we finally were going to see Ciudad Perdida. But to get there we first had to cross a river and than climb 1300 steps. The remains of the city were very interesting and pretty. Grass and tree covered terraces that were the foundations for the houses. Of course there is nothing left of the wood houses that were built hundreds of years ago. There are around 170 terraces and we visited a few. We climbed a little higher and had a great view over the biggest and highest terrace and the surrounding forest and mountains. Amazing!
The soldiers protecting Ciudad Perdida were very friendly and had no problems lending their guns to us and getting photographed.
After we visited the lost city it was time to hike back.
Usually I was quite slow and most of the time I walked at the back of the group, usually together with Chelsie who was slower than the rest of the group as well. Antonio was very nice and walked at the end with us and even had enough patience to speak slowly Spanish with me (Gracias Antonio!) But somehow at a river crossing I lost the people walking in the front of the group and the last people were far behind me. So, I ended up walking alone for about two hours through the Colombian jungle. I usually don't like hiking alone but I started to enjoy it when it started raining very hard. The trail turned into a small river and since I was all sweating from hiking anyways I didn't mind getting wet. And it was warm anyways. We were all soaking wet when we got to the camp but no one really cared. Our clothes were dirty and wet most of the time anyways.
The last day shortly before the end of the hike, we all jumped into the river. All clothes and shoes on. Everything was wet from sweating, rain and river crossings anyways. It was a lot of fun and very refreshing. The hike on the last day was a lot of downhill and not too difficult. I even ran part of the way because it was easier to run than to walk the trail.
Back in Taganga at night we all met for dinner and drinks (after a nice hot shower) and had a good time together.
The hike to Ciudad Perdida was one of the reasons why I wanted to go to Colombia (Thanks Eli for telling me about it) and it totally held up to the expectations. The hike was truly amazing. The landscape was beautiful, the Ciudad Perdida impressive, the trail challenging but great, the fruits delicious, the group was nice and our guides awesome (Gracias Carlos y Antonio!!)